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Wednesday, June 3, 2009

Florence Oregon A Sportsman’s Extravaganza!







BEAUTY & THE BEAST: Landing in Eugene, Oregon in the middle of the night after a twelve-hour plane flight from North Port, Florida is not the best way to view the stunning landscape of the Oregon terrain as one drives their rental car from the airport to Florence. Dark and winy roads at a seven percent grade only make one think you are lost in finding the way. Cell phone usage was at a minimal, depending what side of the mountain you were on when lost and looking for directions to mom’s house. Of course I was not really lost, just misdirected and we were calling to let my stepfather know of our soon to be arrival if we were on the right road! Upon arrival at the house, the usual greetings were exchanged with the exception that mom was not there, just with us all. Catherine and I were planning a vacation out to the trail, (Florence, Oregon is where the Oregon trail meets the Pacific ocean), latter in the summer for a visit and some heavy angling of the trout filled streams, sturgeon gladdened Siuslaw and the many a species from smallies to bucket mouth bass in the lakes. Mom’s sudden loss brought us out a bit early but I now know why she moved here. Not only was Florence a total beauty with everything a sportsman could ever want but it was full of life from the birds to the flowers, the stunning color and the wildlife to include many an elk on the grazing hills abound. Chuck’s house, nestled in the hills outside Florence, overlooked a beautiful small lake, beaming with tailing fish as we awoke to a magnificent splendor; Siuslaw lake. I could have been in the lake country of Florida except the air was a crisp 55 degrees as we watched an early riser net a whopping cutthroat to his boat. Shortly afterward, gently releasing it back to the mirrored lake, with but a few ripples off the sides of his Alumaweld, a boat used in these parts in contending with both river, lake and tidal waters. As I sprang up for another cup of Joe, the martins buzzed in a grouping as another hatch lifted from the lakes edge and a flock of honkers above rode the winds towards the north to Alaska as spring was now in session.

The Rhododendrons were coming into bloom and the town of Florence was in properness of the arrival of those who follow the blooms with its annual Rhododendron Days, a festival of colorful landscapes and mountains adorned in both flowers to humming birds everywhere. We started our morning with that treat of the angler catching cutthroats to bucket mouth bass all morning long and then Chuck treated us to breakfast at Charlie’s, a roadside family restaurant located on hwy 126, the main throughralfare into downtown Florence and the Siuslaw river crossing from Eugene, about and hour or so away from the east. Made to order sour dough pancakes, sausages, bacon eggs and more coffee started our day as we laid siege to Old Town Florence, nestled alongside the Siuslaw port of the river. Little shops of Old Town, gave the charm of a secluded coastal town adorned with artist shops, trading posts and Pacific eats to treats all along its avenues. Incredible & Edible Oregon, located at 1350 Bay Street, owned and operated by Ron and Patti Gates, an Oregon products shop that boasts of many a knick-knack to Oregon wines and other local influences. The customer service is of the best in show and a real treat in finding out all one needs to know about the local area of surrounding Florence and its tidal estuary of the Siuslaw. A cold front was coming off the Pacific and winds were increasing to twenty miles per plus as Chuck suggested we try lunch at a local Mexican restaurant which he had heard was really good. Knowing of my mother’s chilies and of my being a true to the word coenuruses of most any food south of the border, Chuck suggested we try Los Compadres, just this side of the river bridge in Florence, across from the warning speakers used in case of a tsunami. I had to go to Oregon to find a true to the word Mexican food restaurant with helping heaping mounds of perfection to the palate. If for no other reason, I shall return to this establishment to curb my wants for that south of the border want in Florence, Oregon. VĂ©ale otra vez amigo! Back into Old Town, I purchased a leather hat from the Leather Factory where regardless of your purchase, from leather pants to jackets; to hats, all cost a twenty-dollar fee. Great pricing and lots of leather too.

Back one the docks, there lined with commercial fishing boats, I could see diggers out on the flats or spoils of the Siuslaw digging for Razor clams, a delicacy one must try if visiting the area. Just East of Florence, clamming at low tide, participants dig six to sixteen inches under the tidal flats in the estuary area north and south of the North Fork Bridge on highway 126 in finding their fill in these delicious clams. Extreme caution exercised; as tides are swift when coming in or going out, at all times in one could become a grave hazard.
As with most docks and commercial fleets, crab pods with buoys abound awaiting trips out to catch the Dungeness crabs, which by the way can be caught anywhere in the port city and Florence even has a crabbing dock to the south up river if you are into that type of angling. Dungeness crab is on the Siuslaw River just about anywhere from the mouth of the jetty to Old Town Florence. For a three-dollar pass, Crabbing in Florence is best at the docks at the south jetty. If you per chance decide to crab, obtain a license and be alert of the size you keep as there is a minimum size for Dungeness crab, which is 5 3⁄4 inches measured in a straight line across the back immediately in front of, but not including, the points.

While Sturgeon fishing On the Siuslaw River happens anywhere, there are drop-offs and holes in the twenty to forty depth range from the Port of Siuslaw boat ramp up river that offer you best bets in landing one of these magnificent fish. Using herring or shad as baits and depending on the swiftness of the incoming tide a half a pound up to a pound and a half of weight to keep it on the bottom, one rigs up a single circle hook in the 12/0 range and the waiting game begins. When there, Sturgeon was going on as we watched from the banks but the Siuslaw River also provides anglers with some very challenging and productive Chinook salmon and Steelhead fishing throughout the year.

The sand recreation area of the Oregon Dunes is a sight of surprising elegance as these dunes are hundreds of feet in height. The sand is that of sugar fine sand and one where sand boarding is a past time for many a local as well, tourist alike. It is much like skiing in powder and a fall is a mere brushing off with not a sand burn one. Recreational dune buggy riding, also done within certain restricted zones, is another sought after past time but just the sight of these dunes is awesome. Many an Rver choose this area for its close proximity to camping, boating, clamming and other activities all within walking distance of the shops, galleries and restaurants of Old Town Florence. There are around a hundred sites available in the local RV campground and a state park around almost every bend of the roads around Florence. Wither picnicking, camping or using the RV, one has but to choose your own paradise. No matter the time of year, the Port of Siuslaw offers river and ocean fishing for salmon, crab, steelhead, sturgeon, halibut and more. Special events are within walking distance of Old Town, to include Rhododendron Days, July 4 celebrations, Chowder, Brews and Blues Festival all located at the Florence Events Center.

Heading north up Hwy 101, the road whips around shear drop-off cliffs to a staggering seven hundred odd feet in a matter of minutes as you can see the imagistic dune turn to wave pounding rocks of the Pacific rim on the Oregon coast. A scene only described as the beauty and the beast as the wind blows a frantic howl and one looks down to see perched sea lions to seals claiming rocks below. Visiting Sea Lion Caves is an awesome sight as this cave offers a secluded visitation from the furious sea out side, lining the rocks in an obedience to nature and size as these creatures are in a mating frenzy, while just off the breaks are the sign of great whites awaiting a chance for the unexpected. Situated at the point of the Devils Elbow National Park is the often photographed Heceta Head Lighthouse, bring many a seafarer home from the fishing grounds of the rim and warning them of the tremulous rocks abound before finding the safe haven Port of Siuslaw through the extending jetties into the pounding blue green Pacific waves.

We ended the day with a bowel of Chuck’s infamouse split pea soup as we watched the sun slip westward into the Pacific and rings of tailing fish bid us goodnight on the lake below. We ended our evening at the Three Rivers Casino with a bit of gaming, returning back to the house with the days thoughts racing by. There was not enough fishing line to last this trip, but later in the year I will be back in catching a few more to remember. “FISH ON!”